LOVE IS A BURNING THING

Posted on: January 3rd, 2014 by mgrivec No Comments

Levi’s patented in 1873 the riveting process to add more strength to the pockets and stress ereas of the pand.The original patent, in addition to the rivets with which we are familiar today, featured a crotch rivet below the zipper.The cowboys complained that the crotch rivet became to hot when they crouched too long beside the campfire having a last cup of coffee. This was a fixture on the pants until the 1940s, Walter Haas, Sr., president of Levi Strauss, went camping in his Levi 501’s. When Walter Haas, had an uncomfortable encounter caused by standing too close to a fire while wearing his copper rivets. The crotch rivet was subsequently removed.

HAMILTON CARHARTT

Posted on: November 29th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

Hamilton Carhartt was born in 1855 in Macedon Lock, New York . He started out in the furnishing business and added an extra t behind his name so his name would stand out. But he had the ambition to create his own goods, so after talking to a railroad engineer, he knew what to do. Hamilton Carhartt founded his namesake company in 1889 and began making work wear with a single goal in mind: Set a standard of excellence to which all others would aspire. He passed away in 1937 at the age of 82. Today, his company remains a family owned operation committed to the mission of providing Best-in-Class apparel for the active worker.

“I believe that when a man wears an article that I manufacture, his self-respect is increased because he knows that it is made by an honest manufacturer, who is honest with his employees” – Hamilton Carhartt

JOHNNY BURNETTE

Posted on: October 27th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

Johnny Burnette  together with his brother Dorsy and their friend Paul Burlison formed the band “Rock ‘n Roll Trio”. John sang the vocals and played the acoustic guitar. They all were golden glove boxers and a lot of their gigs ended in a fight. Therefore the trio was givin’ the name “the Dalton gang”. The brothers recorded a song ” Rock Billy Boogie” named after their kids names “Rocky” and “Billy”. This song was the start of the music genre “rockbilly”, which was later turned into “Rockabilly” cause it sounds better. They scored no big hits and after Johnny went solo he scored his biggest hit with “you’re sixteen”. His song ” Train kept a-rollin” was later rerecorded by Aerosmith. John died in a boat accident in 1964. One of our favorite songs is “Honey Hush”

http://youtu.be/X71dO3B8N5o

JACOB W. DAVIS (1831-1908)

Posted on: September 19th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

Jacob W. Davis (originally from Lativa ) lived in Reno where he owned a small tailor shop and made functional items such as tents, horse blankets and wagon covers for the railroad workers. the fabric Jacob used were heavy duty cotton “duck” and heavy duty cotton “denim” clothing which he bought from Levi Strauss & co. A customer asked Jacob if he had a solution to strengthen to pockets of her mans trousers, because his pockets kept ripping. He strengthen them with metal rivets he normally used on the horse blankets. These riveted trousers were in instant hit by the railroad workers in Nevada and he worried that someone might steal his idea. he tried to apply for a patent on the process, but didn’t had the $68 to file the papers. So in 1872 he contacted Levi Strauss to finance the apply which he did and so the patent (no.139,121) was issued in the name of Jaboc W. Davis and Levi Strauss & co. on may 20, 1873. This date is now considered to be the official “birthday” of blue jeans. Levi hired Jacob to oversee production of the riveted pants at the Levi Strauss & co San Fransisco plant. Jacob continued to work there for the remained of his live.

BLUE MONDAY

Posted on: August 27th, 2013 by mgrivec No Comments

Once a month we will share a story from one of our costumer and his dry denim. We will call it “BLUE MONDAY”. The kick off is from Mitchel and his Atelier LaDurance.

My first ‘dry denim’. Unfamiliar with the concept ‘Dry Denim’. You supposed to wear the jeans at least 1 year without washing.In the store i got the upper button not even closed, help from Roger had to come in. After 3 weeks of wearing, and one heavy night out, the first tear was in the jeans. By jumping on the bearer of a bike, my jeans got stuck and raptured. They fixed the jeans at Jeanspaleis, and he could be worn again! After that accident, followed a lot more! One queensday in the city of Eindhoven got the jeans all wet bij Red Vodka! The jeans and the white Allstars had become red! I thought that by wearing the jeans the red flood would dissapear! And it did! The jeans got stuck several times between the chain of my bike, i slept in it, i spill beer over it, i worn it in church, at party’s and at going out. Slowly the shape of my phone, wallet and keys came through the tough viber of the jeans! Then there came the vacation to Croatiä. 35 – 40 degree, at a humid climate. The discoloring of the went quikly, while the jeans looser sat down. After Croatia the jeans was no longer dark blue, but light blue! The shape of my phone, keys and wallet sat in the dust of my jeans! The jeans began to feel like à sweatpans! I would do everything with my jeans on! It sat perfect. Nowadays the jeans hasn’t been washed for 18 months! In between he went broken, but he got constantly repaired. Each hole is an other story to tell! Now i’ve created my own jeans, i want nothing else than dry denim!
Mitchel Hellenbrand

THE GREAT WHITE TEE

Posted on: August 18th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

A t-shirts defening characteristic is the t-shape made with the body and the sleeves and are out of cotton fibers knitted together in a jersey stitch that gives it it’s distinctive soft texture. The t-shirt evolved from the one piece ” union suit” undergarment men wore in the 19th century through cutting them into two pieces. During WW I european soldiers wore lightweight cotton undershirts under their uniforms. This cool apparel caught on fast by the american troops who wore only wool uniforms during the hot summer days in europe. By WWII the army and the navy included them in their uniforms. After WWII veterans wore their uniform trousers with their t-shirts as casual clothing. In the 1950′s Hollywood coppied this style and we all know the rest is history. We believe it’s a luxury to go to work in a jeans and a t-shirt!

AVIATOR SHADES

Posted on: May 19th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

The aviator shades as we know them today were first developed in 1936 by Bausch & Lomb and branded by Ray Ban. In those days pilots needed a great pair of anti glare sunglasses and Bausch and Lomb’s design attempted to cover the entire range of the human eye and prevent as much light as possible from entering the eye from any angle. The design was modeled from the goggles being worn by the U.S. military. Ray Ban began selling the glasses to the public in 1937.The Aviator became a well-known style of sunglasses when General MacArthur (see pic.) landed on the beach in the Philippines in WWII. Newspaper photographers snapped several pictures of him wearing them. In the 60′s the shades became popular, but it was after the release of the film ” Top Gun ” that the sales of the aviator shades went sky high! Even today the aviator shades are largely unchanged in design and are still standard issue for the military pilots around the world.

BRETONE STRIPE

Posted on: April 18th, 2013 by mgrivec No Comments

In 1858 the French Navy introduced the white and navy striped knitted shirt as part of the French navy uniform, because the block pattern of stripes made them easier to spot in the waves when they fell overboard. The original shirt featured 21 stripes, one for each of Napoleon’s victories. The striped shirt soon exported to other navies. Around 1950 the Bertone stripe became a fashion hit, when Hollywood stars like James Dean, Andy Warhol and Marilyn Monroe wore the stripes on the big screen. It became Jean Paul Gaultier’s personal brandings trade mark in the 80′s. And the design of his ‘Le Male’ perfume bottle is tribute to the famous French garment as well.

FLYING SHUTTLE

Posted on: April 13th, 2013 by rgrivec No Comments

The flying shuttle was invented by John Kay in 1733 and was one of the key developments in the industrialization of weaving denim. In previous looms, the shuttle was thrown through the warp threads by hand and wide fabrics required two weavers seated side by side passing the shuttle between them. On the flying shuttle Kay mounted wheels and used paddles to shoot the shuttle from one side to the other and back when weaver jerked a cord. Using the flying shuttle, one weaver could weave fabrics of any width more quickly then two could weave with a normal shuttle.

BERNARD LIECHSTENSTEIN

Posted on: December 21st, 2012 by rgrivec No Comments

Bernard Liechtenstein, better known as Rodeo Ben, was a Polish immigrant who came to America with only some money and his portable sewing machine. In 1937 he made his first steps on american ground and decided that he will use the name Ben. In that time Philadelphia was the  centre of the american textile industry. It was there that he opened his tailor shop. After he made his first denim western shirts for a rodeo roadshow, more clients came in and that brought him the recognition. In 1946 the Blue Bell company employed Bernard ( Rodeo Ben ) to develop a jeans line for cowboys, because ordinary jeans did not stand confrontation with the power of the animals. With cooperation of some famous rodeo stars as Jim Shoulders, Freckles Brown and Bill Linderman Ben made some jeans that were tested by cowboys. The thirteenth version was the perfect one.  The 13MWZ (13th, Mans, Western zipper) as Wrangler named it in 1947, was also the first zippered, not button up jeans in the world. Rodeo Ben died in 1979 in his new homeland. He was a true star of western tailoring.

THE LAW ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT!

Posted on: August 29th, 2012 by mgrivec No Comments

Especially when it comes to wearing a real nice pear of jeans. Derrick our all-time-favourite crimi has caught us attached to the TV screen since we were kids. Oh man, the music, the locations, this hero and his villains, the sunglasses, and least but not last Harry. This week out of a sudden we asked ourselves what kind of jeans, if any, Horst would wear in his leisure hours. So we spend some time on the internet for our research. Finally we retrieved this picture. A bleached chino style seemed to be the ‘Munich Oberinspektors’ favourite choice. As we would say: “Finger weg von der Waffe”.

HISTORY CHINESE LAUNDRY

Posted on: June 19th, 2012 by mgrivec No Comments

In 1820 Chinese immigrants came to the Gold Mountain(America) for work. They became contract laborers who worked in the goldmines and on the railroads. In 1850 more young Chinese men hoped to make a fortune in America. They were excluded by law for numerous jobs and as a result they started to work in laundries. The Laundries were hot and crowded with grueling working conditions.In 1851 Wah Lee opened the first Chinese hand laundry in the United States. His small, leased storefront in San Francisco had a simple sign: “Wash’ng and Iron’ng.” Within a few weeks, the business had expanded to twenty washermen working three shifts daily. In 1880, 95 precent of San Francisco’s Chinese laundries operated in wooden buildings. White business owners resented the success of Chinese laundries, and lobbied for a law insisting that laundries be situated in brick buildings for safety. The Chinese owners fought back and argued that the law was inherently discriminatory and won. Chinese laundries are now symbols of oppression, and of freedom.

CC JEROME’S JETSETTERS

Posted on: April 15th, 2012 by rgrivec No Comments

Last sunday we were invited to Jeroen’s 39th birthday party in Maastricht. Jeroen is the singer/ guitarist of the rockabilly band CC Jerome’s Jetsetters. After a couple of beers the band started their gig and we were very impressed by their sound. A great mix of their own songs and some covers of “rockabilly” legends as Johnny “Guitar” Watson, Chuck Berry and so on. Thanks to Jeroen for inviting us!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3KpkkLK8qA&feature=related]

TWEED

Posted on: March 12th, 2012 by rgrivec No Comments

Tweed is a very closely woven, rough and unfinished woolen fabric and because of that the tweed jackets and trousers ( traditionally worn by the upper class ) became a very popular choice for hunters and early motorists. The original name of tweed was tweel which means twill in Scots. After a misinterpretation of a handwriting by an englishman tweel became tweed and the name remained ever since. For us a nice tweed hunter jacket and denim goes hand in hand.

BLUE VELVET

Posted on: March 7th, 2012 by rgrivec No Comments

Blue Velvet is a master piece from the “father of surrealism films” David Lynch and was made in 1986. The title is taken from the 1963 Bobby Vinton song of the same name. This movie was also the revive of Dennis Hopper’s career. In a cult movie like this you will always find cult music like “in dreams” from Roy Orbison.

DENHAM SEWING SCHOOL

Posted on: February 28th, 2012 by mgrivec No Comments

As Kids we grew up watching our mother cutting and sewing jeans at a Pfaff sewing machine. In those days there was only one length available, so she did all the hemming herself. As kids we played with the machine that is still running today. Many years later when our friend Jason Denham opened the Denham sewing academy we were the first that graduated. Now when our kids are in the store they also want to play with the sewing machines. time is repeating itself!

PONTIAC GTO

Posted on: February 4th, 2012 by rgrivec No Comments

The most bizarre thing about the GTO is that it was never supposed to exist. “No high performance cars” was a mandate that came straight from the highest bosses of GM. But in 1964 the GTO was born. By many it’s considered the first true muscle car. GM took an intermediate size frame instead of a full-size lines as their competition did and could therefore mark it for a budget price. The option package was called GTO, which copied ferrari’s GTO (Gran Tourismo Omologato )model. For us the ’66 model is the nicest one they ever made!

KATHLEEN-ROBBINS.COM

Posted on: January 11th, 2012 by mgrivec No Comments

In Cotton is a beautiful photo essay by photographer Kathleen Robbins about the the changing landscape and vanishing livelihood of Mississippi cotton farmers. A handful of people who remain where their great-grandparents once settled down. Each spring, they weigh the odds and walk the land, recognizing every turnrow and low point and subtle rise over a thousand or two thousand or even eleven thousand acres. And, once again, as their parents and grandparents and great-grandparents did, they will buy the seed and the fertilizer and service the tractors and the combines and hire the cropdusters and begin the daily prayers for more rain or no rain and sunshine and cool nights and no tropical storms in September and no frost in early October.

UNIQUE DENIM MANUFACTURE

Posted on: January 4th, 2012 by mgrivec No Comments

For 35 years, Edwin Japan have worked on improving efficiency, quality, construction and washing methods by studying and engineering machinery used in the denim manufacturing process.
It is impossible to improve what one makes without spending the time everyday to master what one does, turning ones profession into a craft. The denim technicians at Edwin are true craftsmen, as their commitment and attention to the product is unquestionably what makes the Edwin product stand out from the mass of denim available within the market today. Whilst this remains ‘production’, the working philosophy remains closer to a greatly more efficient and productive Artisanal method.

 

BLUE CHRISTMAS

Posted on: December 14th, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

Elvis Presley helped to bring the bad boy image to mainstream 50’s America.  With Rock ‘n Roll as the soundtrack for a new generation and denim as the ‘uniform of nonconformity’ for the young. When Elvis suggestively swayed his hips in his jeans, denim became sexual. Like for example in the movie ’ Loving You‘ where the King portrays a truck driver who becomes a rock ‘n roll star. And is a true walking publicity for Levi’s: 507 Big E Jacket and 501 Big E jeans. To us Blue Christmas means sleigh bells in the air and denim everywhere.

PEA COAT

Posted on: November 4th, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

One of our favorite jacket is the original Pea Coat which is a dark blue double breasted jacket made from 850 g wool. The right pocket usually has a small pocket sewn inside for storing coins. The name ” Pea Coat ” comes from the Dutch word Pij Jekker, in which Pij referred to a twilled blue cloth with a nap on one side. The term ” Pea Coat ” was first used in 1723, when it became a cold weather uniform in the Dutch and British Royal Navy. The US. Navy adopted them in 1881.

TIP TOP DRESSED IN PRISON

Posted on: October 21st, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

One of our favorite movies is Escape From Alcatraz (1979: Director, Don Siegel), staring style icon Clint Eastwood as Frank Morris. In this movie you see some classics a man should have in his wardrobe such as a Beanie, white T-shirt, Chambray shirt, Pea Coat and a Chino. I can tell you that these inmates were dressed tip top in prison!

STEVE JOBS (1955-2011)

Posted on: October 6th, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

As real Apple fans we are moved by  the loss of Steve Jobs and we are going to miss his creativity and inspiration. One of our favorite quotes is: “ I’m as proud of what we don’t do as I am of what we do.”


HAKAMA

Posted on: September 11th, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

The Hakama is a traditional Japanese clothing, best known as a piece of samurai clothing or as  a part of uniform worn by Japanese martial arts like Aikido or Kendo.The Hakama was worn by samurai so that the opponent was not able to see the footwork. The Hakama has seven pleats which are a representation of the seven virtues of Bushido ( The way of the samurai). Today only black belts are required to wear a hakama( Aikido). Once you earned to wear the hakama, you must learn how to fold it. The original hakama is made from cotton and hand dyed in natural indigo. As a denim purist and Aikido student, i just can’t wait to earn my hakama.

SINGER,160th ANNIVERSARY

Posted on: September 2nd, 2011 by mgrivec No Comments

Isaac Merritt Singer ( October 27, 1811- July 23, 1875) did not invented the sewing machine, but he improved it. Many had patented sewing machines before Singer, but the machines were either impractical or inefficient. Isaac Singer invested $40 and a few day’s work and came up with a new approach to sewing, a needle that moved up and down.In fact he developed a machine so sophisticated that it had all the basics features found on sewing machines today. Isaac Singer started making machines in 1851. We are proud to say that we work with a vintage Singer sewing machine in our shop.